€ 15,45
Garganega. But that’s the boring bitch that is usually used to make dull soave. Secure. Also. But that’s not what they do at Cà dei Maghi. They take the trouble to harvest the first half in September. And the second half only in October when the grapes are fully ripe and voluptuous.
Do they also do something at rest? Well, at least no tea drinking. It could just be that they are already contentedly sipping from an earlier harvest year and gloating over what the next will bring. Like this 2019 for example. Wonderful year for this grape resulting in a very serious bianco. Layered, pleated and structured. Slightly smoky, macaroons, almond sweet and a peach plus its skin. Fine condiment. A salty sigh plus a honey splash. Moreover, according to the importer, the smell has a trace of ‘luigia grass’. Never heard of it. Never smelled it. But he has now made me curious.”
Winery: Cà Dei Maghi
Wine: Barabao
Classification: IGT
Grape variety: Garganega
Region/Area: Valpolicella (Verona)
Type: Dry white wine
Soil: Limestone, marl soil
Harvest: 2021
Alcohol: 14%
Closure: Technological cork
Serving temperature: 10-12° C
Laying potential: Long shelf life, no data available yet
Content: 0.75
In a vineyard dedicated to red wines near Monte Santoccio, some Garganega grapes defy time; sourced from vines over 50 years old. For the Barabao, about half of the grapes are picked during the September harvest, relatively early for the Garganega, and then dried for about 40 days. The remaining grapes are fully matured on the vine and harvested in October. All grapes are then transferred to the cellar to be vinified together. Here the grapes are aged in stainless steel tanks for 6 months, followed by a year of bottle aging.
The “double harvest” of the Garganega grapes results in a wine that reminds us of the sun in its beautiful, intense and brilliant golden yellow color.
On the nose, the Barabao is a structured wine with hints of Mediterranean herbs such as sage, rosemary and luigia grass. After sitting in the glass for a few minutes, the fragrance notes change to slightly smoky with almond paste, cognac and saffron.
Drinking the Barabao is like a dip in the southern sea which, once in the mouth, is powerful and elegant, with salty notes and a touch of spirit and honey.
This Barabao from Cà Dei Maghi goes well with grilled fish, mussels or mushroom risotto.
“Garganega. But that’s the boring bitch that is usually used to make dull soave. Secure. Also. But that’s not what they do at Cà dei Maghi. They take the trouble to harvest the first half in September. And the second half only in October when the grapes are fully ripe and voluptuous.
Do they also do something at rest? Well, at least no tea drinking. It could just be that they are already contentedly sipping from an earlier harvest year and gloating over what the next will bring. Like this 2019 for example. Wonderful year for this grape resulting in a very serious bianco. Layered, pleated and structured. Slightly smoky, macaroons, almond sweet and a peach plus its skin. Fine condiment. A salty sigh plus a honey splash. Moreover, according to the importer, the smell has a trace of ‘luigia grass’. Never heard of it. Never smelled it. But he has now made me curious.”
Jancis Robinson
“White spring blossom, bruised pine nuts. A remarkably unusual wine… Which brings me to white miso and tempeh, mirin and sake, honey and dried pears. A hint of spice in the ripe pear, fruity herbs and fruit peel spices. The wine is dry, but there is a ripeness of apricot jam and a richness that makes me wonder if these grapes were picked on the eve of a late harvest. Sweet hazelnuts and a soft texture that smear flavors in cirrus vibes. Long honeyed finish with a stab of spicy bitterness. Amazing. (TC)”
– Jancis Robinson (2022)
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